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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
NFW BEAUTY: Jeremy Scott
Make-up artist Val Garland told me her inspiration was 'Daisy Duke comes to Paradise City' - very naïve and fun. She gave the girls round dolly blush and big fake lashes and then painted on loads of freckles all over their cheeks and noses (using 9 different brown eye pencils to make them realistic!)
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
NFW BEAUTY: Jeremy Scott
The Jeremy Scott look was fun, frivolous and totally tongue-in-cheek. The inspiration for hair was '50s country and western singer meets Barbie' - yep, you can imagine. Two chunky ponytails with glamorous curls were draped over the models' shoulders and then the top was curled into a big loop piled on the top of the head.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
NFW BEAUTY: Marchesa
The make-up was simple but beautiful too – inspired by water nymphs with lots of highlighting on the cheekbones and an amazing graphic white glitter (made especially for the show) on the eyelids.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
NFW BEAUTY: Marchesa
Marchesa's first fashion show attracted some major models – I chatted to Karen Elson and Karolina Kurkova backstage and watched Karolina having her hair done. The hair look was very simple – a side parting with a low ponytail and a small section of fishtail plait at the top of the pony.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
NFW BEAUTY: Preen
The Preen look was one of my favourites in New York. Val Garland gave the girls fresh, healthy, 'nubile' make-up – two different blushes on the cheeks: an apricot on the apples of the cheeks and then a stronger mango shade right in the centre to create a two-dimensional effect. She used apricot on the lips too (MAC Purring Lip Glaze) and kept the eyes nude and mascara-free with just a cream pencil inside the eye rim.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
NFW BEAUTY: Preen
The hair was stunning – a modern version of a 40s roll, creating a loop at the back of the head. Hairstylist Paul Hanlon did it by twisting the hair in two sections and then tucking one section into the other to create a continuous loop. He used Japanese pins to secure it but I wouldn't recommend trying it at home – it took about 3 stylists on each girl!
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
NFW BEAUTY: Herve Leger by Max Azria
The make-up for Herve Leger was all done using the Temptu airbrushing system – a wash of soft antique gold on the lids, healthy matt skin and straight groomed brows (make-up artist Lisa Butler told me Jennifer Connolly's brows were the ones she was channeling).
The hair (by the lovely Neil Moodie) was very structural and architectural – three ponies down the back of the head, all attached to one another to create a kind of tribal, mohawk feel.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
At Zac Posen, the hair was inspired by Grace Kelly Wallace Simpson, but with a modern twist. The front was retro, with slicked Marcel waves, but the back was modern with a low messy bun.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
The make-up was partly inspired by Grace Kelly too but also had a bit of a Twiggy/Jean Shrimpton 60s feel, with exaggerated lashes (two different set of falsies) and a line of lilac-grey painted just above the crease of the eyelid. Lips were painted a matt rose-petal pink to create a really delicate, innocent look.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
DVF was a very earthy collection, inspired by Africa, so the make-up followed that theme with earthy tones of tan, army green, peach and ochre. It looked very natural but the girls were actually wearing a lot of make-up, with lots of different colours used on the face to sculpt, shade and contour
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
The hair was basically a French pleat but whereas a French pleat goes upwards, this was rolled downwards to create a rounder shape. Inspired by the shape of African women's hair when they use wraps, the hair had a deliberately dry texture with some of the teasing left to show.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
The Tommy Hilfiger look was a very fresh easy Spring/Summer look - just a natural light foundation with highlights on the cheekbones, a deep brown to sculpt the eyes, no mascara, and lips pared down with a foundation.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
The hair was also really fresh and easy - centre partings with a sleek, straight pony at the nape of the neck. Simples!
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
For the DKNY show, the girls were wearing big floppy hats so Eugene Souleiman (hair god, who was doing the hair for Wella) gave the girls extensions to add some length. He wanted their hair to look like they'd been in the sun so he added darker extensions to the underneath layers and then lighter blonde ones on top.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
He told me the look was loosely inspired by our very own Kate Moss - 'It's cool, easy hair - not too perfect. We're not brushing the hair or tonging it. We're just tying it up into a loose bun, spritzing it with Wella Ocean Spritz to give it a bit of wave and texture, and then undoing it and shaking the hair out to give it that dishevelled feel. It's young and contemporary - with a bit of an edge but still beautiful.'
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
The DKNY make-up look was inspired by a California beach girl who's gone to NY - the girls all looked super-pretty and healthy. Make-up artist Charlotte Willer who was doing the make-up using Maybelline New York told me she wanted the girls to look very natural and fresh, and a little bit sunkissed. She ised a peachy blush all over the cheeks and up to the temples and then added a brighter coral blush on the apples to give the girls a flushed look.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
The eyes were kept simple with just an accent of pearly shimmer at the inner corners and a bit of beige along the lower lashline (and a sweep or two of One by One Mascara). On the lips she used an amazing product - Maybelline ColorSensational Popstick in 110 Raspberry Ice, to give the lips a natural pinky sheen.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
Make-up at Custo Barcelona was summery but also slightly robotic. Make-up artist Gato wanted the girls to look like beautiful mannequins or perfect robots. He gave them healthy-looking skin with warm shades on the cheekbones and a juicy coral lip.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
The hair was androgynous with very strict, slick side-partings and a super-glossy wet look. The girls' hair was tied it a tight ponytail at the nape of the neck and covered in Bumble and Bumble straightening gel to give it a really wet, high-shine look.
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New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
Some of the male models had long hair so their hair was done the same as the girls; the boys with short hair just had the slick side-partings and the same wet-look finish.
New York Fashion Week SS12: Backstage Beauty
We sent our Beauty Editor Sophie to go backstage at the biggest New York Fashion Week shows to bring you all the hottest new beauty, hair and make-up trends for next Summer...
by Theresa Caney
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