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Backstage Beauty at New York Fashion Week!

Company's Beauty Editor Sophie Qureshi goes behind-the-scenes at New York Fashion Week to bring you all the hottest hair and beauty trends being sent down the catwalk for S/S11!

By Clare Gill
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Diane Von Furstenburg: Beauty - Popping Pink!

diane von furstenberg,pink lips,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends diane von furstenburg at NYFW This is my favourite look of the season so far (ok, so we\'re only a couple of days in but it was pretty damn hot). The bright fuschia lip just looked incredible on all the girls – it\'s definitely making me want to experiment with brighter colours. James Kaliardos, the make-up artist behind the look, told me the pigmented orchid shade was inspired by Andy Warhol\'s paintings of Diane Von Furstenburg\'s own lips (plus the 70s glamour of women like Bianca Jagger and Lauren Hutton). He used a MAC Lip Pencil called Process Magenta, followed by a MAC Pro Neon Pigment Powder in Magenta Madness to create the day-glo fluorescent pink. \'The lip is meant to look really matte, like it\'s been silk-screened onto the face,\' James told me.

\r\nWith such a statement lip, the rest of the face didn\'t need to work too hard. James kept the skin natural, just contouring lightly with the MAC Sculpt and Shape Powders and highlighting the bone structure with MAC Pearl Cream Color Base. He used the same product to highlight the inner corners and centre of the eyes and left lashes mascara-less so that all attention was on the mouth.\r\n

Diane Von Furstenburg: Hair

Diane Von Furstenburg,bun hairstyle,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Diane Von Furstenburg: Hair \r\nHair at DVF was super-simples. At the dress fittings, hairstylist Orlando Pita loved the way the models all turned up with their hair in easy, messy buns so he decided to copy that look for the show itself. He used a teasing brush to create texture on top, as though the girls had scraped it up themselves with their fingers, and gave the buns a slightly messy finish, that was still sexy and beautiful. Love that it\'s a look I can actually do myself...

Preen: Hair - Bangs are back!

preen,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Preen: Hair - Bangs are back! \r\n\r\nBangs were the hair buzzword at the Preen show today – hairstylist Luke Hersheson told me he was using clip-in ones on all the models to create a kind of \'posh schoolgirl\' vibe. Inspired by Jane Birkin and Emma Balfour (amazing model – huge in the 90s and famous for her eye-skimming fringe), he described the look as \'90s minimal, mixed with 60s-shaped bangs, hanging low, almost into the eyes\'.

\r\nTo create the look, he used Redken Body Full Amplifier to give hair some guts, then curled it with a large curling iron to give a soft bend to the hair. A bit of powder was added to dull it down a bit, and then a light spritz of Redken Forceful 23 Hairspray, just to give a smidge of hold. The style shouldn\'t look like it\'s got product in – just very loose, very natural, very sexy. (Get ahead of the curve and have a fringe cut in now...)

Preen: Beauty

New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends preen at new york fashion week \r\nI LOVED the Preen make-up too – which is surprising, because it was all about blue eyeshadow (not exactly my thing). Inspired by Catherine Deneuve, the colour scheme came from the pale blues in the clothing, with a turquoisey blue shadow (MAC Creamshadow Quad in Lite Brite) applied right on the inner corner of the eye. Like the hair, the make-up mixed 90s minimalism with a hint of the 60s – a taupey grey line applied just in the crease (MAC Eyeshadow in Swell Baby). Make-up artist James Kaliardos told me he wanted the girls to have a softness and an openness to them – \'There\'s a lot of architecture in the clothes so I wanted to bring shape to the face but still keep it all very beautiful.\' He left the skin pared down and minimal, contouring the cheeks with MAC Give Me Sun Mineralize Skinfinish Bronzer, and highlighting the cheekbones with MAC Pearl Cream Color Base. Maybe I\'ll be busting out some blue eyeshadow come Spring then...

DKNY: Hair - The Bun-ny!

dkny,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends DKNY: Hair - The Bun-ny! \r\n\r\n\r\nGetting backstage at DKNY was a bit of a mission but the look was so pretty, it was worth the effort. Hair God Eugene Souleiman gave the girls a cross between a pony and a bun – I\'ve nicknamed it the bun-ny – by making a pony low at the nape of the neck, looping it over on itself and retying, so the ends hung loose. \'I didn\'t want to reinvent the wheel,\' said Eugene. \'I just wanted to do something a little chicer and a bit more refined and sophisticated – but still young.\' He was inspired at the fashion fitting by the scarves that were looped around the girls necks – \'The hair sort of blends in with the scarves because some of it hangs free from the knot,\' he told me. \'It\'s a really easy look to do – a new kind of minimalism that\'s just soft and simple.\'
\r\n Eugene used a new Wella Professionals product called Velvet Amplifier on the models\' hair while it was still wet – it\'s like a primer for your hair and makes whatever product you put on after a whole lot more effective. He then added Wella Professionals Perfect Setting just on the roots to give a bit of control before blowdrying smooth. I\'ll definitely be trying the bun-ny myself before Spring – it’s the perfect fast fix for rushed mornings but more interesting than a pony. You heard about it here first...

DKNY: Beauty - Pretty Healthy

dkny,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends DKNY: Beauty - Pretty Healthy Make-up at DKNY was all about looking natural, healthy and glowy. Make-up artist Charlotte Willer used Maybelline Dream Satin Liquid Foundation and then dusted the girls’ cheeks with a pinky blush (Maybelline Pure Mineral Blush). The brows were groomed but the lashes were left bare and the lids were dabbed with just a spot of silver glitter, right in the middle of the lid. \'It\'s to give a little glitzy effect on the runway when the models blink,\' said Charlotte. \'You don’t see it when their eyes are open but when they blink, the glitter just catches the light.\' For the show, Charlotte dabbed the models\' lids with eyelash glue and then pressed on the glitter, but for a more wearable look, she advised using a dab of silver eyeshadow, applied wet to give a flash of light to the lids. I spotted a not-yet-launched lip product being used on the girls too – Maybelline ColorSensational Lipstain in In the Buff. I think this\'ll be a huge hit when it\'s launched in the UK so look out for it – it\'s a pen-style product that gives lips a really natural, gloop-free stain. They smell really good too (don\'t ask me what made me smell the thing!)\r\n

\r\nNails broke the trend for nude – a brand I didn\'t know called KO, short for Knock Out, was being used, and the shade was a bright matte green (called Lagoon I think). Don\'t think you can buy KO in the UK yet so it\'s one to pick up if you\'re on hols Stateside.

Behnaz Sarafpour: Hair - The New S-Braid

Behnaz Sarafpour,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Behnaz Sarafpour: Hair - The New S-Braid\r\n \r\nBraids have been huge for the past few seasons and they cropped up again at the Behnaz Sarafpour show. This time though, the braids aren\'t the messy, dishevelled ones of last season – hair stylist Ashley Javier told me he wanted to create braids a woman would have to go to a hairstylist for. \'This is a look for a woman who wants people to know she’s been to a salon\', he told me. \'The braids are perfect and you definitely need help for that.\' He took his inspiration from a photo of a flower girl at a wedding with a little French braid – childlike, innocent, preppy. \'The side part makes it a bit less country girl though,\' he said. \'I did a side part from the arch of the eyebrow and then made an S-shaped braid that curved around the head. It\'s a great look for travel in Spring/Summer – get your stylist to do it and then you\'re all set for your holiday.\'
\r\nThe hero product of the show (so new, it\'s not even out yet) was the new Kérastase Elixir – a super-refined oil (containing Moroccan Argan Oil) that gave the hair thickness and volume as well as shine. Ashley told me difference between this product and other hair oils is that the molecules are so small, it sinks right into the hair so that it doesn\'t weigh it down and actually gives extra body. Apparently it\'s amazing for fine hair so I\'m literally dying to get my hands on a bottle...

Behnaz Sarafpour: Beauty

Behnaz Sarafpour,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Behnaz Sarafpour: Beauty Make-up at Behnaz also had a holiday vibe – \'It\'s a girl on holiday, having a peaceful, serene vacation – not Ibiza!\' said makeup artist Gordon Espinet. \'The girl from New York who goes off to Kerala - she\'s surrounded by beautiful things and really relaxed. Fresh, young, hippy, but still super stylish.\' The skin had a kind of spa treatment glow, with radiance but not shimmer. The eye was highlighted with a new MAC Mega Metal Eyeshadow called Dalliance – a greeny, pewtery shade that gave a beautiful shine around the eyes. Lashes were curled but left mascara free (like loads of the shows so far this season). MAC Give Me Sun Mineralize Bronzer (not out yet) was used as a blush on the cheekbone and also from the browbone up to the temples to give warmth to the face, and lips were turned a fleshy, skin-toned pink with MAC’s new lipstick in Supremely Confident.

Behnaz Sarafpour: Nails

New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Behnaz Sarafpour: Nails Nails were also flesh-toned – but with a bit of a twist. A brand new shade from CND called Perfectly Bare (out Spring/Summer) was used on falsies – a perfect fleshy pink nude – but the edges of the nails were rimmed all round with shimmery silver. It was meant to look like the girls had been wearing silver polish and then taken it off but not done it properly, so a bit of silver was left round the edges. Wow – being sloppy about taking your nail polish off is now totally on trend!\r\n\r\n

Custo Barcelona: Hair & Beauty

custo barcelona,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends custo barcelona The Custo show look was inspired by a 70s festival goer, dancing in the sun (nice thought, given it was chucking it down in NY at the time). Make-up artist Gato wanted to achieve the flush you get after you’ve been in the sun a few hours and your cheeks are starting to burn, so he used a Maybelline coral blush to make them look almost on fire. Eyes were nude with just a touch of Maybelline Falsies Mascara to separate each lash and lips were kept nude with Maybelline new Color Sensational Lipstick in Totally Toffee. \r\n

\r\nHair was a little bit 70s, with more of a rock feeling – no parting, just set on a curling tong to give texture at the roots and then left down, leaving the bottom half flat. Easy, sexy hair – can\'t argue with that. \r\n

Max Azria: Hair - Chic from the shower

max azria new york fashion week,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends max azria new york fashion week Being too lazy to blow dry your hair just got right on trend – at Max Azria, the girls were meant to look like they just got out the shower. Hair stylist Laurent Phillippon used Bumble and Bumble Bb Gel to create the wet effect, and then braided ponies before twisting them into a bun and pinning loosely.

Max Azria: Beauty - Airbrushed angels

max azria new york fashion week,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends max azria new york fashion week Make-up artist Lisa Butler used airbrush brand Temptu for the Max Azria make-up. The girls were made to look fresh and angelic with a copper highlight on the eye and cheek, and a pink pearl to accentuate the bone structure. So pretty.\r\n

Thakoon: Airy Fairy

Thakoon,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends new york fashion week thakoon \r\n\r\nThe Thakoon girls looked sooo beautiful. Nature, clouds and all things ethereal were the inspiration – make-up artist Diane Kendal made them glow from within with a very light base (NARS Pure Radiance Tinted Moisturiser – not even out yet), and then added a taupey brown to the eyes and gold on the cheeks and browbones.
\r\nBrows were strong (\'to stop the girls just floating away\', said Diane), but lips were left nude with the new NARS Pure Matte Lipstick in Verdure. The girls looked like perfectly sculpted fairies.\r\n

\r\nHair had the same ethereal feel. Hairstylist Didier Malige told me it was all about \'finding the inner beauty in each girl and just accentuating that.\' Texture was key to the look – Didier used Frédérik Fekkai Full Blown Volume Styling Whip on the roots and Fekkai Coiff Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray on the ends to create the kind of texture you\'d get after a couple of days by the sea. Hair was left loose and natural, parted just wherever it fell.

Monique Lhuillier: Beauty

Monique Lhuillier,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Monique Lhuillier \r\nDebutantes were again the inspiration at Monique Lhuillier – make-up srtist Val Garland was inspired by Irving Penn debs and created a winged eye in a matte lilac, with metallic grey lilac ( MAC Paintpot in Dangerous Cuvee) taken into the socket. \'It\'s a bit Audrey Hepburn with a bit of 50s vibe,\' Val told me. False lashes were used at the outer corners of the eyes ( MAC #41 lashes, cut in half) and mascara blended them with the girls\' real lashes. Cheeks were contoured with just a hint of blush to give the face structure and a cat-like was added to the cheekbone. Val used a bright pink on the lips with plenty of pigment (MAC Vanity Fair Kissable Lip Colour), making it a soft stain though, rather than overly glossy.\r\n

Monique Lhuillier: Hair

Monique Lhuillier,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Monique Lhuillier: Hair Hairstylist Rudi Lewis created an Irving Penn-inspired woman with a gorgeous roll at the back of the head, finished with a fine gold barrette placed at the crown. \'I wanted to do something special,\' Rudi told me. \'Something very elegant and chic for a woman who\'s going someplace.\' He created a high ponytail at the back of the head, leaving the top section of the hair free, and applying Bumble & Bumble Spray de Mode Hairspray. The pony was looped round into a roll and the top section was then smoothed back and wrapped around the base of the roll to disguise the elastic. The gold barrette was clipped into the top section, adding a chic graphic detail. Loved this look.

Jenny Packham: Beauty

Jenny Packham,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Jenny Packham: Beauty Jenny Packham: Hair\r\nBritish make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury wanted the make-up to be very elfin, dreamy and ethereal. She gave the girls beautifully highlighted dewy skin and used an iridescent silver on the eye to create a wet-looking sparkle. Brown shadow was used underneath the eyes, just for shading, and chocolate brown mascara on the lashes. Cheeks were given a peachy blush and a glowing highlight to create a kind of other-wordly feel. So so pretty.\r\n

Jenny Packham: Hair

Jenny Packham,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Jenny Packham: Hair \r\nEnglish debutantes were the hair inspiration for the Jenny Packham show – chic young girls that are almost women, having an amazing, magical night. Hair stylist Amy Farid created messy distorted chignons – oval-shaped and flatter in profile so they didn\'t look too ballerina. She prepped the hair first with Bumble & Bumble Thickening Spray, put it in a pony in the middle of the back of the head, and applied Bumble & Bumble Surf Spray and Grooming Cream for extra texture. She then sectioned the pony into two or three sections and loosely rope-braided each section, before pinning them round each other to create the modern distorted bun. Wisps were left around the hairline so the overall look wasn\'t too refined and perfect.

Carlos Miele: Beauty

Carlos Miele,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Carlos Miele Carlos Miele was all about a classical Brazilian beauty – making the girls look sexy and even more beautiful than they already are. Make-up artist Gato used Maybelline Dream Satin Liquid Foundation and then bronzing powder to contour the girls cheeks and make them look healthy. Colour on the eyes was intense but still transparent, with a creamy brown metallic shadow and loads of mascara. California pink on the lips finished off the healthy, sexy look.

Carlos Miele: Hair

Carlos Miele,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Carlos Miele: Hair The girls wore gorgeous textured ponytails with a dry, airy texture. The ponies sat in the middle of the back of the head, with plenty of volume above them. Hair stylist Rodney Cutler tonged the hair all over first to give it plenty of texture, then backcombed it and roughed it up with his fingers, before creating the pony – \'walk of shame hair\', he called it!

Tommy Hilfiger: Beauty

Tommy Hilfiger,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Tommy Hilfiger: Beauty \r\n\r\nThe Tommy look was all-American beauty, as you\'d expect from Mr Hilfiger. The girls had gorgeous healthy skin, with a bit of a flush on the cheeks and bright red lips. Make-up artist Diane Kendal (one of the nicest on the catwalk circuit) applied MAC Lipstick in Ruby Woo to the girls\' lips, then blotted with a tissue, powdered, and dabbed on extra colour so that it looked a bit worn in and not too perfect. A silvery white shimmer ( MAC Silver Dusk) was used to highlight the eye and on the cheekbones to highlight the planes of the face. It was the kind of sporty-sexy, healthy look that made me wish I\'d done cheerleading.

Tommy Hilfiger: Hair

Tommy Hilfiger,New York Fashion Week beauty trends,New York Fashion Week,beauty trends,S/S11 beauty trends,fashion show,make-up trends,hairstyles,hair trends Tommy Hilfiger: Hair Legendary hairstylist Eugene Souleiman was on hair for Tommy and doing a very clean and simple but sexy look. \'I want them to look like they\'ve had their had done but then they\'ve had a bit of a good time, if you know what I mean,\' Eugene told me. (Yep, we hear ya.) \'It\'s kind of like Daddy\'s girl is not quite as nice as Daddy thinks she is.\' Eugene partially tonged the models\' hair by taking a section and weaving in and out of it with the pointy end of a toothcomb to make a new section (like they do when you’re having your highlights done). He tonged just these pieces (on the fattest tong I’ve ever seen) so that it gave a broken movement to the hair and two different kinds of textures, which blended together when brushed out. The result was a cross between a beautiful blow-out and natural hair – really gorgeous.

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