After shunning big catwalk shows for smaller presentations for several seasons, the designer could no longer accomodate everyone who wanted to see his collections, so a big show was called for this season.
And he created a collection to fit with it - he was inspired by a "cross cultural multi ethnic" theme, but this didn't translate literally; we felt it was more glam rock meets cartoon chic!
Thigh-high boots, beaded skirts, fringed leather ponchos and patchwork fur made a show that treaded a fine line between trashy and chic - but we reckon he cracked it.
The starting point of this collection was an MRI scan of a healthy human brain, an image which was reproduced on several items in this show, before a final few pieces depicted the brain exploding, apparently.
This season had a 1960s feel, but with a luxe, sophisticated edge. Navy coats with fur trim, leather and camo combinations and kilts, with touches of velvet, sheer panelling and florals.
Highly desirable, wearable and collectible, this collection has cemented his future in French luxury conglomerate PPR.
While Erdem Moralioglu has always been a big fan of using colour in his work, this season he took a similar risk to Mary Katrantzou and went over to the dark side.
Flat pointed shows and loose hair framed the models bottom and top, but in between they displayed incredible creations including tweed coats with grungy green patterns, gothic blooms on dresses and cut out holes in neoprene... tres cool.
Ostrich feathers helped add to the mixed up textures, tone, and surfaces, making this show a whole new look for the designer - but one that he completely nailed.
Apparently the inspiration behind the AW13 collection, entitled 'Trench Kisses' was Christine Keeler, a showgirl and prostitute who er, 'entertained' various English politicians and Russian spies in the early sixties.
When this theme met traditional Burberry, Christopher Bailey created a show peppered with flesh coloured semi-sheer latex; as skirts, sleeves of trenches and detailing - but balanced out this sexiness with kitten wedge
Other cute quirks were heart printed fabric, animal prints (inclusing giraffe and leopard) and even hard gold embellishment on tops, belt and coats.
GET INSPIRED WITH LFW AW13 STREET STYLE
The editors who expected MW's signature boho style with flowing chiffon and maxi dresses were left hanging when the models started walking out - the folksy look has made way for clean lines, cool block colours and acid brights.
There was definitely still elements of his bohemian roots through the tapestry detailing on coats, tie dye, embellishment and brocade, but this collection felt more modern and relevant than it has for seasons.
Pops of neon, bold striped suits and long jackets made up a very strong show - we particularly loved the acid yellow coat with monochrome block detailing - does this season represent a whole new design ethos for Sienna Miller's BFF?
The design duo who take prints #tothenextlevel were back in force with this collection, which showcased intricate print design and flattering structures.
Luxury fabrics were a key element of the show, and the inspiration behind the prints and shapes appeared to be insects. Despite all the bright colours and clashing hues, monochrome also played a key role, with black & white coats, strong shouldered jackets and providing the mainstay of the dresses. We were excited to see a couple of pairs of trousers in the mix too!
Hair and make up was kept minimal to allow the bold, printed designs to shine - with slicked hair and shiny skin completing the look.
The print darling of the fash scene made a brave move with this show - moving away from the bold, ingenious patterns she is known for and pushing her collection forward,
Prints took a back seat as Mary focused on showcasing her skills with shape and cut - which surprised the fash crowd but has made everyone sit up and pay attention.
Photographic prints in tones of smudgy greys, blacks and white appeared on dresses, tops and skirts, and all of the looks were architecturally brilliant - huge trumpet sleeves, pointed capes and asymmetric dresses.
Our only issue is that while they looked incredible on the catwalk, we're not sure how they will translate into wearable pieces, especially without the bright prints to draw buyers in. Time will tell if her bold move was a brave one...
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL
Queen of the Punks Dame Viv Westwood actually sent a pretty tame collection down the catwalk this season round. The tailoring trend which seems to be dominating for AW13 continued, with Westwood's trouser suits and galaxy-esque dresses with drape detailing teamed with simple cardis. We do love Viv but it was all a bit officewear. Like Next on a good day.
As the collection progressed the punk in Viv crept back out to play with some seriously cool metallic pieces - the standout for us was an incredible iridescent leather biker that shimmered purple and green - GORGE.
The emphasis at Mulberry was on disproportion, with oversized skirts, jackets, dresses and checked prints heading down the runway. The only thing that seemed undersized were the 3/4 length flares worn with almost every look, including dresses: a new silhouette for Autumn/Winter but a slightly odd one...
Their leather work was updated with voluminous yet draped shoulders on jackets and little fitted capes coming down the catwalk. The colour palette for the clothes (and bags, natch) was an opulent one: rich wine, dark turquoise and royal blue.
Can't afford to get in on the Mulbs AW13 action? We'll be lusting after the mini dog versions for our pets instead!
MICHAEL VAN DER HAM
Michael van der Ham has gone all grown up for AW/13. Whilst the patchwork, crafty feel remains, the playful prints and cuts are gone and in their place stand tailored separates in shimmery embroidered patterns of forest green, purple and burnt orange.
Different fabrics were layered over eachother, with holes artfully cut into the top layer to reveal the prints beneath. This paradox of structure and deconstruction gave the collection a fresh and unique look. Does it make our heart beat faster like last season? No. But we'll definitely be taking inspo from it on the days we want to dress a bit more sophis!
Inspired by music, and in particular vinyl records, David Koma made a collection that was precise, cutting edge and above all, cool.
Not normally a fan of colour, Koma branched out with bright red in this collection - across jackets, dresses and skirts - and even a couple of pieces of cornflower blue... we even spied a slight print on a bodycon dress, although the bulk of the collection was still his favoured black. However, despite being known for the tight dresses worn by celebs like Gaga and Beyonce, he branched out and created incredible seperates - this is a designer who is really mastering his art.
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
You always know that Henry Holland's show is going to be fun; the invite was an old skool cassette tape so we expected more 90s fun - and we weren't disappointed. Henry knows his market, and makes clothes for the yoounger end - but he flipped that idea this season with the idea of a 'Rave Nana'.
This meant acid house meets dated home furnishings - but it somehow worked. Suits in clashing fabrics and loose jumpers over skirts, mixed in with leather and mongolian fur, all in all the jewelled tones of the rainbow - marron, emerald green, deep blue and accesnts of orange. HoH keeps getting better.
The idea behind this collection was ganfgs who stole clothes to rework to their individual style, meaning that the show was quite unique and may well split opinion.
A whole host of Lynn's tailoring marched down the runway, in shades of grey, dusky blue, black and beige, interspersed with amazing pleated detailing, metallic tunics and sheer lace.
An emphasis on the waist peppered through this colelction too, something we've seen throughout the week - start digging out those cinching beltws now girls...
MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC
This show was everything you would want and expect from Moschino - leopard print, fur, satin and a big dose of glam rock.
There were loads of covetable pieces here - and this show reinforced that pink is defintely a key colour for AW13 (sorry tomboys), and here it manifested itself in oversize honey-monster style coats, peplum trimmed dresses, grafitti print jackets and this cool tux suit.
It was 80s meets modern - and we loved it.
Even with royal customers, Issa decided to deconstruct the glamour slightly this season, and have his girl 'trek to the desert' - this equalled tapestry prints, tweed and wide brim fedoras with trains - and it all felt a little cooler than previous collections.
However, there was still elements of the luxe here (relax, K-Middy), so the silk jersey dresses, printed chic kaftans, maxi dresses and lurex threads kept it the right side of glam.
SISTER BY SIBLING
If you want bonkers knitwear then you've come to the right show. Cara Delevingne kicked off her LFW regime on the catwalk here, where she and the rest of the models showed off huge boucle knit jumpers and dresses in soft pastels, zig zag style long cardigans and crocheting to die for (watch this space for more crochet this season.
Let's not forget to mention scarfs that may look mental, but are actually extremely practical - they'll keep you warm all winter.
You can aways rely on Rocha senior to create a beautiful show, and this season was no exception. A colour palette of black, rose pink, khaki, lemon and lime was the basis for the collection, which featured trapeze shaped dresses covered in 3D chiffon flowers, whimsical tulle head dresses and one of the most ingenious coat shapes we have seen this fashion week - coats and jackets with clever holes under each arm so that it was be worn as a 'drape' (THE fashion way to wear your coat), or just like, well, a normal coat. See picture - we bet you will want one next season too.
Proving that they are the princes of prints, Clements Ribeiro drenched their collection in dazzling depictions of tiles, oriental flowers, stripes, prince of Wales checks, grids and animal print - in fact we couldn't think of print they hadn't manipulated!
However, it was to their credit - the show was coherent, ladylike and wearable, and the hair and beauty styling kept it modern and cool. Nice one.
Character was added in the cute cartoony patches appliquéd onto black dresses and a psychedelic signature print which seems to depict everything ever: polka dots, violins, stars, hearts, and drumkits (yes, really)... we could go on! That's our christmas party frockspiration sorted, then!
Bling, sequins, metallics and an abundance of dazzling dresses - Julien Macdonald knows his core audience (all members of The Saturdays were front row) and he caters to them - brilliantly. They may not be cutting edge, and certainly not for everyone, but you have to applaud JM for reworking his formula to success every year.
Sass & Bide
Sass & Bide's AW13 offering was inspired by the idea of striking a balance in the collision of opposites such as structure and fluidity, man-made and natural. The focus for the viewers of the show was definitely on the man-made, as the exceptional handiwork that has gone into creating this collection was unmistakable.
Structured caging and metallic embellishments were mixed with sumptuous sheer fabrics and loose flowing trousers and maxi skirts. The colour palette was neutral and monochrome, except for the pop of bright yellow (definitely a trend to watch next season) in the form of accessories and vinyl skirts and jackets.
The look became almost grecian-goddess-turns-warrior towards the end of the show, with seriously beautiful flowing white dresses in sheer fabric with white wavy piped detail overlaid, teamed with contrasting heavy metal elements. The overall look was toughened up femininity.
As we nestled in to our seats among Company friends (Laura Whitmore, Amanda Byram, VV Brown, and Kate Nash), stylish twin sisters Dani and Annette Felder brought us something pretty special this season.
The German duo delivered a chic, slick, and totally wearable collection - think deep red furs mixed with pvc pants, quilted cream skirts and knicker-skimming shimmering red-carpet numbers in forest green velvet. While beauty saw gold manicures back with brushed metal nails and orange pop lips (a perfect contrast to all the rich coloured clothes).
Of course no show is complete without a small malfunction; as one poor model had to remove both her stilettos after slipping. But of course it wasn’t enough to distract from the gorgeous garms - we’ve seen how we want our A/W13 wardrobes to look – this is it!
Team Company hearts Bora, and his beautiful designs which somehow manage to be both whimsical AND edgy. This season was no exception, with chiffon swing dresses meeting brocade suits, and the welcome introduction of leather - as full ensembles as well as trimming on jackets and dresses. We particularly loved the faux ties on top of shirts and dresses in either leather or lace... Bora Aksu is the king of chic detailing.
Designer of the moment Zoe Jordan created a completely lust-worthy show fit for a rock goddess - and we're picturing ourselves in pretty much all of it.
Corseted dresses, cool prints, grungy knits and to-die for coats - and don't even get us started on that incredible metallic suit. One to watch, for sure.